Packing a backpack seems like a simple task, but are you really packing correctly and including the things that you should? If you plan to take a backpacking trip there are certain things to think about like the length of your trip, the weather etc. The information about your trip will then help you know what you need and how much you need to pack. Aside from understanding what you need, how much you need and how to pack everything into your backpack. Learning and understanding what items are of the upmost importance could in fact save your life if you find yourself in a sticky situation.
How to Pack
Start with your sleeping bag in the bottom for a solid foundation. Put the heaviest items like your clothing, food, and cooking gear in the main compartment, keeping the weight close to your back, nearest your center of gravity. For men, this is higher, and for women it tends to be lower, towards the small of the back. Top off your pack with lighter items like your tent, maps or guides and anything you may need quickly at any particular moment like cameras, or chap stick etc. If you are unsure if everything is packed correctly try it on and walk a few steps around and see how it feels. Remember that the heaviest part of your pack should be towards the center or small of your back.
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Buying a Tent
With so many choices and options available, buying a tent can be a complex decision for any camper to make but it's impariative to pick the right one. If you buy a tent with all of the features available, the tent may be comfortable but could also be large and heavy-which is not necessarily the best choice for backpackers. If you buy a lighter tent, there may be less features and purhaps not a lot of protection from natures natural elements; when a tent is used under the wrong conditions it could take the fun out of any camping trip. The key is to find the right balance for your specific needs and you will have a tent that you can enjoy for years to come.
Parts of a Tent:
Body
The body is the main bulk of the tent once it is deployed. Tent poles provide a frame which holds up the walls and forms the body.
Rain fly
A rain fly is a waterproof covering that goes on the outside of the tent. A good rain fly extends to the bottom of the tent in order to protect the entire tent from rain and water damage. Some even extend out from the tent to channel the water away from the tent body. A good rain fly can mean the difference between a wet and a dry experience.
Vestibule
A vestibule on a tent is very similar to a covered porch. This space acts as a buffer between the tent entrance and the snow and mud, allowing a person to remove soiled clothing without bringing the mess inside the tent. Vestibules also provide extra storage space and protection from the elements.
Footprint
A footprint is an extra piece of material that fits below the tent and protects its bottom from wear and tear. Many manufacturers make footprints that are fitted to a particular tent, but it is easy to make your own with plastic sheeting (usually available by the roll). Another option is to use a standard tarp; it will not look as professional as the first two options, but it will work just as well in dry conditions. Replacing a worn out footprint is much more cost-effective than replacing the entire tent.
Note - In wet conditions, using a tarp or any footprint that extends out from the tent will enable the rain coming off of the roof to form puddles on the footprint's surface. Depending on the slope of the ground, these puddles can travel under the tent, allowing water to get inside.
Stakes
Tent stakes are placed in various loops or holes around the tent and pounded into the ground. This allows for the tent to remain taut and anchored to the ground.
Guy lines
Guy lines are tension cords that attach to the ground and keep the tent anchored in high winds. Some tent constructions require guy lines to keep the tent's shape.
Vents
Ventilation is a camping necessity. Most tents have mesh openings that allow the air to flow in and out of the tent while protecting against bugs and dust kicked up by the wind. This circulates the air and prevents condensation buildup inside the tent. Most mesh vents can be closed to help keep out wind and keep in heat.
Doors
Tents can have either a zippered door, or just a flap. While a flap is a functional door, it does not provide as many benefits as a zippered door. A zippered door will keep out rain, snow, wind, and insects as well as control the flow of air. When buying a tent, consider the number of doors you will need. If you need to save space and weight, then one door might be all you need. If you plan on having a large number of people staying in the tent, then two or three doors might be a better option.
Poles
There are two basic types of tent poles: rigid and collapsible. Rigid poles are typically stiff, tubular poles that slot one-into-another to form a frame over which the tent wall hangs. Collapsible tent poles are typically lightweight, flexible, and strong. Tent poles come in a number of different materials including: fiberglass, aluminum, aluminum alloys, and carbon fiber. Collapsible poles are generally tube shaped and can break down into small, 1-2 foot, sections. An elastic shock cord runs down the middle of the tubes in order to connect all of the pieces.
Collapsible Tent Pole Materials:
Fiberglass
Solid fiberglass poles can be prone to breakage and deterioration and they are frequently found in cheaper tents. Fiberglass loses its flexibility in cold weather and can break with little applied pressure. The benefit of using fiberglass is that it is incredibly light-though they should not be used for anything more than casual camping.
Fiberglass tubes
Fiberglass tubes are collapsible fiberglass poles that are often reinforced with aluminum ends. They are held together with an elastic cord that helps to improve flexibility in colder weather. More reliable than solid fiberglass poles, fiberglass tubes are a popular, cost-effective style of tent pole.
Aluminum
Tent poles made of aluminum are stronger, more durable, and generally more reliable than fiberglass poles. Aluminum poles are just as light as fiberglass but they don't lose their flexibility in cold. Aluminum poles are more expensive than fiberglass, but they are a sound investment for anyone that plans to do extensive camping.
Aluminum alloy
Different metals can be added to aluminum in order to produce a stronger and lighter pole. Aluminum alloy poles are even more costly than standard aluminum poles but they are worth the cost if added strength, durability and light weight is desired.
Carbon Fiber
Carbon fiber poles are very strong and very durable, and they are often half the weight of aluminum poles. Carbon fiber poles are the best option for the serious camper, though they can sometimes be the most expensive.
Tent Types: Single Wall Tents vs. Double Wall Tents
Double Wall Tents
A double wall tent is essentially a tent within a tent. There are two layers called the tent body and the tent fly. The tent body is usually made of nylon and mesh and is supported by poles that attach to the body using external sleeves or clips. The tent fly (or rain fly) is then attached to the poles and staked to the ground. Double wall tents provide excellent ventilation because the tent body contains a lot of mesh.
Compare to single wall tents:
Pros:
- Warmer
- Cheaper
- More durable
Cons:
- Harder to set up
- Heavier
- Bulkier
Single Wall Tents
A single wall tent consists of just a single layer of material between you and the elements. The material needs to be impermeable enough to keep rain from coming in while remaining breathable enough to let moisture out. Single wall tents are typically very light.
Compare to double wall tents:
Pros
- Lighter
- Less Bulky
- Easier to set up
Cons
- More expensive (sometimes twice the price of their double wall counterparts)
- Colder
- Less Durable
Seasonal Tents
Summer Tents
Summer tents often include a lot of mesh in the construction of the body. The rain fly on a summer tent is not as long as those on multi-season tents; this allows the tent to have more ventilation during the hot summer months. Summer tents usually use a two-pole construction in order to save weight.
Three Season Tents
Three season tents are designed to be very versatile. These tents usually include a full rain fly that can be removed in order to improve ventilation. Three-season tents typically use a three-pole construction because it provides extra durability during heavy winds. These tents are very popular due to their versatility; however, they are not designed for cold winter weather.
Four Season or All Season Tents
Four season tents are basically three season tents that are better equipped for winter use. They are usually constructed with four poles for excellent durability under heavy winds and snows. Four season tents are the most versatile tents available, but they are also costlier than three season tents-a fact which has limited their popularity.
Tent Shapes
Rigid Frame Tents
A rigid frame tent utilizes a sturdy frame made up of stiff, tubular poles that slot one-into-another to form a frame over which the tent material can hang. Guy lines typically hold the tent in place and keep it from blowing down rather than holding the tent up. Frame tents are usually large and roomy, perfect for lots of gear or people. This type of tent is used more for casual, family camping because they are heavier and bulkier than other types of tents.
A-Frame Tents
A-frame tents use two triangular shaped frame sections that are connected by a pole that runs down the center, or ridge, of the tent. This forms an elongated, triangle shaped tent that is fairly simple in construction. A-frame tents are becoming increasingly rare among hikers and campers due to the fact that dome tents are roomier than a-frame tents with comparable floor sizes.
Dome Tents
Dome tents are popular for hikers and campers alike. Like most tents, dome tents consist of a tent pole frame and a lightweight tent body. These tent poles are evenly spaced and curved in order to form the dome shape. Dome tents usually use between two and four poles as the frame. Because they are overlapping and evenly spaced, the tent poles change the geometry of the floor depending on the amount of poles used (two poles would create a square floor, three poles would make the floor hexagonal, and four poles would mean an octagonal floor). Using three or four poles increases the amount of usable space inside the tent, but it also makes the setup a little more complicated. Dome tents are lightweight and sturdy, and they provide a large amount of internal space while retaining structural integrity under inclement weather.
Hoop Tents
Tunnel, or hoop tents, use two to three hoops arranged in sequence as the frame. This creates a tunnel on which the tent body can hang. Hoop tents are popular among hikers due to their simple construction, large proportion of useable space inside and durability under high winds. The hoop construction allows the weight to be distributed among all of the hoops evenly, thus creating a very strong and stable structure.
While these are the basic styles of tents available today, it is by no means a complete list. There are many variations and combinations of these styles available as well. It is important to select the tent that will be most beneficial to you.
Capacity and Size
It is always a good idea to buy a tent with a capacity greater than your anticipated need. If there will be two people using a tent, it is a good idea to buy a tent built for three or four people. This is important because even though you can generally fit two people in a two person tent, the size of the people and sleeping bags need to be considered. Other things might affect your decision when it comes to capacity and size including: the amount of gear you plan on having inside the tent, the amount of roll or tossing and turning space desired, the amount of vertical space required, and whether or not there will be pets inside the tent. It is always better to have too much space rather than not enough.
Color
The choice of tent color might seem insignificant, but it can be an important choice. More than just a cosmetic decision, tent color can dictate the temperature of the tent. A tent that is brightly colored will reflect more sunlight and create a cooler environment inside. A tent that is darker colored will absorb more sunlight during the day and keep the tent warmer. Also, bright colors will enable rescue workers to easily spot a tent in dense forests or snow should the need arise.
Quick List of Things to Look For
- A full rain fly—the best camping trips can be spoiled by rain
- Durable material—you want a tent that can stand up to the rigors of camping
- Waterproofness—it is a good idea to water test your tent before a trip. Locate any leaks and seal them before they become a problem.
- Pockets, hooks, and gear space—places to store gear and hang lights can make a substantial difference in the level of comfort.
- During the summer, you will want lots of ventilation—extra mesh, windows, and doors will enable the tent to breathe during the hot summer season
- During rainy or snowy weather, select a tent that is built to withstand high winds and heavy rains—bad weather and snow accumulation can collapse a tent.
- A vestibule, especially if camping in rainy or snowy weather—vestibules provide an enclosed space to change clothes and store gear separate from the tent.
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Camp Stove Recommendations
Camping stoves are split into two main categories - car camping and those used in backpacking excursions. When it comes to regular car camping in campgrounds, a heavier duty stove is ok since you won't have to carry in on a trail while backpacking. Two-burner propane camping stoves are the preferred choice over the older white gas camp stoves. The pressurized butane and propane camping stoves are rated the easiest to use which is what we are looking for in convenience. For the hardier backpackers among us, a lightweight, single burner stove is what ranks as the #1 priority. Backpackers need stoves that work in cold weather, windy areas, and at high altitudes. Stove manufacturers measure their performance in terms of "boiling time". The boil time is usually done on 1 quart of water using the "recommended" fuel for that stove. They range from 2 1/2 minutes to 10 minutes (at sea level). Look for a mid-range stove with 3 to 5 minute boil times. The higher up in altitude you go, the longer it takes to boil water so if you plan on backpacking high up in the mountains, look for a stove that is rated favorable for those conditions.
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Hydration Systems
Hydration systems are devices designed with the single purpose of getting necessary liquids to the user as quick and as convenient as possible. Initially, hydration systems were designed for bikers because of limited hand availability. These devices have been popularized in many other outdoor activities and are a necessity for many military operations. Having a hydration system is much more effective and convenient than carrying around water bottles. Having a hydration system on or in your pack keeps you more hydrated because by the time you go for a drink from a water bottle you are already showing signs of dehydration. Also, when empty, hydration systems take up little space and are very lightweight.
How Hydration Systems Work
Hydration systems consist of 3 main parts; the packaging, a polyurethane reservoir also known as the "bladder", and the hose. The Bladder is usually an elongated, flexible, and removable water container that goes inside whatever pack fits your needs. These reservoirs range in size from 64 ounces (2 quarts) to 128 ounces (1 gallon). The hose is attached to the bladder and has some sort of bite valve at the end that allows the water to flow out by biting down on it. With the end of the tube just inches from your mouth the need for a water break becomes non-existent.
Pack
Hose
Bladder
Choosing your Hydration System
Choosing the right hydration system is important. There are many different designs, styles, and sizes. You must also keep in mind the factors that contribute to its ease of use because nowadays hydration packs can be sport/activity specific. Such factors include how easy it is to clean or refill, and how you intend to carry and store It.
Cleaning
Cleanliness is one of the most important factors when it comes to any sort of reusable water device. When water sits idle for an extended period of time or the container is not cleaned properly after use it is more susceptible to bacteria which can increase the chances that the user gets sick. Most bladders are removable which makes them easier to clean and also allows for them to be used in almost any backpack. The size of the access hole for filling the container also affects how easy it is to clean the bladder. An opening roughly large enough for the users hand to fit inside is ideal for cleaning. Some manufacturers offer bladders that are dishwasher-safe and or easily replaceable after use. Many prefer a bladder that is transparent making it easier to check the cleanliness of the bladder. Some companies also make cleaning tablets that clean out water reservoirs and water bottles.
Be Practical, Size does Matter
Understanding what activities you will be using the hydration system for is very important. For instance, a bicyclist may prefer a smaller lightweight hydration pack for less wind resistance. For long distance trips with no other water source you might consider a larger bladder. The mountain biker's pack will be slightly different from the road biker's hydration pack, as well as those used for winter sports and running.
Small
Small sized packs are very important if weight is an issue. For running and biking a larger pack could be a nuisance. When all you need is water, it is a good idea to keep the pack small and to the point. Smaller bladders can be a good idea especially if you have a water filter and local water supply.
Medium
Medium sized hydration systems are very useful for short day hikes and other activities that can be achieved in short periods of time. Another good aspect of medium sized packs is they can store other necessities such as food/snacks and emergency equipment.
Large
The larger Packs are typically designed for backpacking or trekking for multiple days. These packs are hydration system compatible but some do not come with the bladder and hose.
Water Filter Attachments
Some hydration systems have quick attachments for water filtration devices. These attachments make refilling anywhere an easy task. In some cases if you intend to carry your reservoir on the inside of the pack it can be very difficult to take off the pack, dig into the pouch, retrieve the reservoir, and fill it with water. Not only do you have to hold the bladder in a position that it will not collapse and spill but you need two hands typically to pump the water. With a special attachment that extends outside of the pack to the filter the task of refilling the hydration system mid-hike has become extremely simplified. This device is also a great idea because it allows for the hydration pack to remain inside of the pack where insulation is much better.
Insulation
Another feature that many hydration systems manufacturers stress is insulation. Many hydration packs are insulated and typically the bigger the pack the more insulated the hydration system can be. Some manufacturers have a special insulation liner that goes directly around the bladder so that it can be attached to the outside of a backpack for easy access and refilling. Hoses can also be insulated too and some hydration systems come with insulated hoses or they can be purchased separately. This is important because after each drink, water will remain in the hose. Since the hose is a much smaller area and is more exposed to the outside it will change towards the ambient temperature at a much faster rate. In other words, in extremely cold weather the insulation will protect the water from freezing and help keep the water from getting warm in the hot sun. Ice can typically also be put inside the bladder in order to keep the water colder for a longer period of time.
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Binoculars
Binoculars (also known as Field glasses) are optical devices that contain dual mirror-symmetrical telescopes mounted together in order for the user to use both eyes when viewing distant objects. Binocular lenses are aligned to point accurately in the same direction, many binoculars are designed to be held by two hands but there are much larger models as well. Binoculars give the user a three dimensional view; the two views contain a slightly different viewpoint to each of the viewer's eye, thus producing a merged view with depth perception. there are two types of binoculars that are used today; Roof Binoculars and Porro Binoculars. you will find many different sizes and styles of binoculars. The most important thing to look for in a set of binoculars is that; it should feel good in your hands and be able to get a clear/crisp image.
Types of Binoculars 
Roof Binoculars
Roof binoculars contain what is known as a roof prism, these binocular models are generally smaller in size than porro style binoculars and are typified by straight barrels. Roof prism models are lighter weight than porro prism binoculars yet maintain excellent image quality. Roof prisms usually have a more sleek design than parro prisms but have a reduced brightness compared to the parro. These binoculars must go through a more strict alignment of the optical elements which requires the elements to be a fixed style. This means that they normally do not need to be re-aligned.
Porro Binoculars
Porro binoculars contain what is known as a parro prism, these models are a more traditional style binocular. Porro prism binoculars are easily identified by the shape of the barrels, which have the objective lens offset from the ocular lens. Parro prisms produce a brighter image versus the roof prism, but the prisms may need to be re-aligned occasionally.
Binocular Sizes
Compact
Compact binoculars offer the advantages of being smaller and lighter. They are perfect for those who are generally on foot for long periods of time and need to trim weight from their load. They usually fit into pockets for easy accessibility and quick use. However, they offer limited light transmission and steadiness in the larger powers. Usually, objective lenses in these compacts are in the 20-30 mm range.
Mid Size
A Mid size binocular offers a good mix of light transmission and steadiness, but is also easy to handle and fairly lightweight is a mid size. These binoculars are great for all around use in most conditions. Objective sizes in mid size binoculars typically range from 30-40 mm. These days, many features of full size binoculars can be found in mid size binoculars, a plus when weight is critical.
Full Size
Full size binoculars are the best for gathering light because of their larger objective lenses, which are usually over 40 mm. They also offer broader fields of view and are easier to steady. The trade off is often in the size and weight. Larger and heavier, they are ideal for those who don't mind carrying a few extra ounces to get a better view.
Power and Viewing
Power and Objective Size, Zoom Options
Optics are described by two numbers separated by an "X." The first number is the magnification (8X) or how many times larger an object will appear when viewed through the optic. An 8X, or 8 power optic will make an object appear eight times closer than the same object viewed with the naked eye. The last number is the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters (X40). The objective lens is the lens nearest the object being viewed. When choosing a binocular, magnification is critical. Lower magnification binoculars, 8X or less, allow for excellent light gathering, wider field of view and extremely steady images. Higher magnification binoculars, 10X or higher, bring objects much closer, but sacrifice some of the other features found in low magnification pairs.
Field of View (FOV)
When viewing through a binocular the visible width at a given distance is known as the "field of view." Field of view may be expressed in feet at 1,000 yards, meters at 1,000 meters, or degree of angle. One degree of angle equals 52.5 feet field-of view at 1,000 yards. An optic with 6.5 degrees of angle can be calculated by multiplying 52.5 feet (6.5 x 52.5 = 340 feet at 1,000 yards). TIP: Higher magnification means closer images but less light transmission and smaller field of view.
Inside the Optic
Lens Construction
Another more recent innovation in binocular lenses is the attention to ocular lens configuration. The arrangement and surface shape can effect clarity and definition, especially at the edges of the image. Brunton Epoch™ binoculars use "hybrid aspheric lens construction," a complex organization of lens surfaces that result in optimal image clarity over the entire image field and eliminate distortion found in standard aspheric lenses.
Coatings
To enhance light transmission through a binocular, manufacturers apply a microscopic film containing magnesium fluoride and other chemicals to the prism, lenses or both. This microscopic film diminishes the reflected or stray light inside a binocular allowing more light to be transmitted to the user's eye. Generally, the more applications of this coating, the greater the reduction in glare and reflections resulting in a brighter crisper image. The least expensive process is known as a "coated" optic where only the prism is coated. When an optic is "fully coated," all air-to-glass surfaces (lens and prisms) are coated once. The best coating available is "fully multi coated" where all air-to-glass surfaces are coated multiple times for the greatest amount of light transmission to the eye. TIP: More coatings mean brighter, crisper images in all light conditions. Exit Pupil & Eye Relief.
Exit pupil
The amount of light exiting the binocular and entering the eye is determined by the "exit pupil." The exit pupil is calculated by dividing the diameter of the objective lens by the magnification. An 8x40 mm binocular has an exit pupil of 5 mm (40 mm ÷ 8 mm = 5 mm). If we were glassing for elk during the day, the pupil of a human eye would only open 2.5 mm, but increase to 5 mm at dusk to compensate for less available light. Binoculars with an exit pupil of 5 mm or higher maximize the amount of light entering the eye, thus increasing image brightness. An 8X24 mm binocular (3 mm exit pupil) will perform well under normal lighting conditions where a 7X42 mm binocular (6 mm exit pupil) provides enough light to see during twilight conditions and into the shadows of the forest canopy.
Eye Relief
In order for your binocular to produce a full image, the proper distance must be maintained from your eye to the ocular lens. This distance is known as "eye relief." If you wear eyeglasses (or sunglasses), the distance is increased because your eyes are 10-15 mm behind a glass barrier. If this additional distance is not accounted for "tunnel vision" will occur. To allow eyeglass wearers to have a full image, a binocular must incorporate "long eye relief" which is a distance of 15 mm or more. Binoculars with long eye relief feature adjustable eyecups which move the binocular to the correct distance from the eye for eyeglass compatibility. Recent innovations such as "multi-step long eye relief" allow the user to twist-up the eyecups to the desired distance from the eye. Brunton Epoch™ Binoculars feature a patented "locking multi-step eye relief system" which allows users to lock the eye cups in their specific position to ensure quicker spotting with less set-up of the binocular. TIP: Eyeglass wearers should seek a binocular with a minimum eye relief of 18 mm.
Focus Mechanisms
Focus settings
Focus mechanisms are critical to the performance and enjoyment of your binocular. A good focus wheel set-up will give you a range of closefocus to infinity in just one full turn (360 degrees) of the focus wheel. Most binoculars have a linear focusing gear, which typically gives the user either a slow focus or fast focus. Slow focus is good for examining things at close range (less than 30 feet). Fast focus is better for long range viewing (30 ft to infinity). Brunton's Variable Speed Focus™ allows the user a combination of fast and slow focus. Brunton has also set the bar for close focus. Typically, binoculars can not focus on objects closer than 5 ft away. The Epoch™ binoculars are able to focus at a mere 3 feet away, with precise focus adjustment, then transition out to infinity with a fast focusing gear. This innovative system has forever changed binocular performance standards.
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How to Zero a Rifle Scope
Once you have the scope properly, and securely mounted onto the rifle you must zero the sights in order to hit the desired targets. In order to do this properly you will need a safe area to fire your weapon, a few paper or cardboard targets, and you may also want to use sandbags to rest the rifle on to prevent it from moving around. Also you will probably need anywhere from 10-30 rounds of ammunition to fire and adjust the sights properly.
Once you have those things prepared, these are the steps to follow:
- Draw 2 dots on your cardboard or paper target. One dot towards the top and the other 6.5 inches directly below that one. Many gun stores also sell paper targets used for zeroing that already have measurements made on the paper.
- Arrange the sandbags on the ground and flatten them out to make for a smooth firing surface. You can fire from the prone firing position, or place the bags on a higher rock or other sturdy object to support the rifle. It is important to have a stable surface to prevent moving around.
- Place the target 25 meters from the point you will be firing from. You will be aiming at the top dot on the target. Fire 3 rounds at that dot. It is important that while firing you aim at the dot through all 3 shots and do not adjust your sight picture throughout the sequence of firing. You should not expect the rounds to hit the dot in the beginning. The object with the first 3 rounds is to keep them all together with a tight shot group. You should try to get them all within a 1 inch box. If you can not get them that tight you will not have an accurate starting point to adjust from.
- Once you have gotten three rounds into a tight shot group you will know where to start. With the top dot being your target still, you want to adjust the sights to move the shot group closer to the dot. The adjustments are done by the knob on the top and right side of the scope. The top adjustment point is the elevation and changes the up and down measurement and the side point is the windage and changes the side to side. It should say which way to turn the knobs on them. The first adjustment you want to make is the windage, or left to right. Depending on how far off the first shot group is, you will make the desired amount of clicks to adjust.
- After making the first few clicks you will fire another 3 shot group. Aiming at the same top dot, you will want the shot group to have moved closer in line with the 2 dots. If the group is not directly below the dots, make the needed adjustments and fire another 3 shot group until the grouping is closer in line. This may take a few times, so just be patient and do not rush it.
- Once you have gotten the windage adjustments correctly in line you can focus on the elevation. The procedure is basically the same. Make the adjustments in the proper direction and then fire a 3 shot group to see if the adjustments are correct.
Once you have the scope zeroed at the 25 yard target you can extend the range out to 100 yards. The adjustments should only be very minor if any. Depending on what range you are planning on firing the rifle at most of the time is where you will want to have it zeroed for.
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